John Lobb is among the most renowned manufacturers in the British shoemaking hub of Northampton, a city that earned its reputation as a shoemaking capital in the 1600s. Although it became part of the Hermes Group in 1976, the factory remains committed to the traditional production process developed in the 19th century.
Technology is used, but sparingly. For example, lasers are not used to cut leather. Instead, lasers create plastic patterns, which are handed to specialized artisans called clickers. Their title comes from the distinctive “click” of the knife striking the cutting table. With special blades, they shape the leather in the old-fashioned way.
Production is carefully restricted, with only 450–500 pairs made each week. This approach gives the sense of one-of-a-kind production. Employees switch between twenty shoe types in a day, instead of repeating one routine step like in typical factories. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welted technology, allowing the worn sole to be changed without damaging the upper.
Similar to Hermes, John Lobb uses exceptional materials, particularly from six-month-old French calves. Only about sixty percent is appropriate for main shoe parts, while the remainder becomes minor leather goods.
The line combines timeless classics with modern updates. The classic City II model, for instance, now feature a sleeker silhouette. The Sennen model gained elongated straps and a thicker sole. The Lopez model, introduced in the mid-20th century, received subtle color and sole innovations. Newer icons include the Porth trainers and the Levah shoes, which are offered annually in a mix of colors and materials.
Through its dedication to craftsmanship, John Lobb continues to be a benchmark in English shoemaking.
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